Marsa Alam: The Red Sea for Nature Lovers

A long way south of Hurghada, Marsa Alam has none of the big-resort bustle. What it has instead is nature: reefs that begin at the water’s edge, turtles and dolphins that live here all year and empty desert mountains rising behind the beach.

Turtles at Abu Dabbab

In this sandy bay north of Marsa Alam, green turtles come into the shallows to graze on seagrass. You walk in from the beach with a guide, and within minutes you can be floating above a turtle as it feeds. Keep your distance and never touch – they are completely wild.

Dolphins at Sataya

Sataya is a horseshoe-shaped reef far to the south, and its sheltered lagoon is where a large family of spinner dolphins comes to rest. It is a full day by boat from Hamata, with coral stops along the way and a good chance of swimming near the pod.

Inland: Wadi El Gemal

Behind the coast lies a national park of granite mountains and acacia valleys, home to gazelles, desert birds and Bedouin families. Our jeep day follows the old riverbed through the park and stops for lunch at a Bedouin camp – a desert side of the Red Sea most visitors never see.

Before you go

• Marsa Alam has its own international airport, so there is no need to fly via Hurghada.
• Wear a long-sleeved swim shirt or reef-safe sunscreen to protect the coral.
• Luxor is a long day from here; if you can, stay a night there instead.