Luxor: How to Spend Your Days in Ancient Thebes

Luxor is ancient Thebes, the capital of the pharaohs at the height of their power, and the Nile divides it neatly in two. The living city and its great temples are on the east bank; the tombs and funerary temples are on the west, where the sun sets. Plan your days around that simple rule and Luxor becomes easy.

East Bank: the temples

Give Karnak at least two hours – its Great Hypostyle Hall of 134 columns is one of those places that photographs never quite capture. Luxor Temple, in the middle of town, is best in the late afternoon and after dark, when it is lit up. The restored Avenue of Sphinxes runs between the two.

West Bank: tombs and funerary temples

• The Valley of the Kings, where a standard ticket gives you three tombs – your guide will pick the best-preserved ones open that day.
• Hatshepsut’s temple at Deir el-Bahari, rising in terraces against the cliffs.
• The Colossi of Memnon, two giant statues standing alone in the fields.
• Medinet Habu and the Valley of the Queens, for colour and quiet once you have seen the classics.

Up in a balloon

Set the alarm for well before dawn. Around 45 minutes drifting over the West Bank as the sun lifts over the Nile is one of those experiences that stays with you. Flights depend on the wind, so we suggest booking it early in your stay in case it needs to move to another morning.

If you have an extra day

Drive north to Abydos and Dendera for two of the finest temples in Egypt, with far fewer visitors, or south to Edfu and Kom Ombo if you are not taking a Nile cruise.

How many days?

Two full days covers both banks comfortably. Three lets you add the balloon, a day trip and an evening felucca on the river.