Black Desert, Crystal Mountain and Agabat: The Road to the White Desert

Ask anyone back from a White Desert safari what surprised them, and many will not talk about the white rocks at all. They talk about the afternoon before: black hills, a ridge that sparkles in the sun, and a valley of golden dunes. These are the stops between Bahariya Oasis and the White Desert, and on our trips you see all of them on day one.

How the route works

From Cairo we drive about four to five hours on the desert road to Bahariya Oasis. After lunch in the oasis you switch to a 4x4 with a Bedouin driver, and the asphalt soon gives way to sand tracks. The stops below come in this order, so the landscape changes from black to sparkling to gold and finally to white just as the sun goes down.

1. The Black Desert

Around 50 km south of Bahariya the ground turns dark. The hills here are capped with black volcanic stone and iron-rich rock that has broken into small pieces and spread down the slopes like a dusting of coal over orange sand. It is not a desert of black sand, as many people expect, but a field of cone-shaped hills with black tops.

Most groups climb one of the hills, which takes 10 to 15 minutes on a short, steep path. The view from the top shows the whole field of black cones running to the horizon. Wear shoes with grip: the small stones roll under your feet.

2. Crystal Mountain

Further south, right next to the road, stands a low ridge made largely of quartz crystal. Up close you see clear and milky crystals set in the rock, and a natural arch through the middle of the ridge. In strong sunlight the whole ridge glitters.

The stop is short, around 15 to 20 minutes, and it is protected: please look, photograph and touch, but do not take pieces of crystal with you. Rangers and drivers take this seriously, and so do we.

3. Agabat Valley

Agabat is where the scenery becomes dramatic. Limestone cliffs and towers stand above a valley of soft golden sand, and from the viewpoint at the top you look down on the whole basin. This is where the 4x4 part of the day becomes fun, as drivers take the vehicles over the dunes on the way down.

If anyone in your group gets car-sick, tell the driver before Agabat. He will take the dunes slowly.

4. Arrival in the White Desert

Timing matters here. We plan the day so you reach the White Desert in the late afternoon, when the chalk formations turn yellow, then pink, then grey as the sun sets. Camp is set up among the formations, dinner is cooked over the fire, and the next morning you see the famous Mushroom and Chicken rocks in the early light.

How long each stop takes

Tips for the day

• Sit on the side of the 4x4 with the best view: drivers are happy to swap seats between stops.
• Keep sunglasses and a scarf handy: the wind picks up in the open desert.
• Charge your phone or camera in Bahariya. There is no electricity at camp.
• Bring a warm layer even in summer for the evening at camp.

All three stops are included in both our shared and private White Desert safaris from Cairo. The route is the same; only the group and the timing change.